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Question:

I've been using a Nikonos V for several years, and I think I want to go to a housing for my Canon EOS 650. Do you think this would be a good move for me? I know a number of divers that have housed their Nikon 8008 and N90 cameras. I would consider moving out of my Canon system if this would offer a significant advantage for my underwater photography. What is your opinion on this?

 

 

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Questions and Answers (Q & A's)

From Alan Broder (from Ocean Realm Magazine - November 1994)

Answer:

Moving from a Nikonos V to a housing, or more particularly, to a single lens reflex camera. Is certainly going to expand your capabilities insofar as subject matter is concerned. Aside from the obvious advantages of focusing and composing through the taking lens, the superiority of the SLR system is vast. Many, if not most of the small active critters which might be serene (stupid) enough to accommodate your placement of a Nikonos framer around them have been eaten long before you find the,. With an SLR, you can hang back several inches or more and fill the frame with a subject and inch or two long. This alone will mean that many more subjects within your means of photographing them have survived long enough for you to find the,. Then you should also consider God’s gift to underwater photographers—the macro lens. With this lens you can fill your frame with a subject anywhere from one by one and a half inches to two by three feet or greater on a single dive without changing lenses.

It’s possible to house just about any SLR camera you might own. There are, however some significant advantages which may not be readily obvious in housing some cameras over others. First, the housing must allow for accessing necessary camera controls. Cameras which require more than one control to be manipulated at a time in order to control a single function may be more difficult to use in a housing. It might be a simple matter to push a button and turn a command wheel when holding the camera in your hand, but this may become a clumsy operation when two hands are needed to simultaneously push, pull, or turn two controls, while a third hand is needed to hold onto the housing (and a fourth would be useful to stabilize yourself on the reef).

A second important consideration in choosing a camera to house (and in the minds of many experienced photographers, the single most important) is access to the image in the viewfinder when the camera is inside the housing. Vision through the finder is generally adequate when using just about any camera as it was intended to be used…on land. You can simply plaster your eyeball against the finder windows and see all of the image on the viewing screen at a reasonably decent size, as well as all of the camera information surrounding the image. As a rule, if you pull your eye back an inch or two, as you’d be required to do if the camera were on the other side of a quarter inch of glass or plastic and you had a face mask on, you’d only see the very center of the image and no camera information in most camera finders.

The exceptions to this rule are those cameras having large "Sport" or "Action" finders—cameras designed with the professional photographer in mind. The exit pupil (thing you look into) on this type of finder is about three to five times larger than on the normal consumer camera. Somewhere between these two extremes are the "high eye point" finders designed to be used by eyeglass wearers.

"But don’t housing manufacturers provide a magnifier for the finder so that you can see the image just as well?" I wish the answer to this, the most asked question by housing buyers could be, "Why yes, they certainly do!" What they do, in fact, provide is a reducing lens to shrink the image so that it can be seen in its entirety from outside the housing by a diver wearing a mask. The smaller image makes a manual focusing and composition more difficult, resulting in less control for the photographer. The better and faster the autofocus functions in your particular camera, the less critical are the limitations on your visual acuity imposed by the reduction in size of the image in the finder when critical focusing is required.

The third consideration in deciding whether housing your camera will meet your needs is the electronic flash dedication factor. The simple, unavoidable fact is that Nikon owns underwater flash photography. Not only Nikonos flash units, but every after-market flash unit from virtually every manufacturer is made to work with the Nikonos camera. The language used to communicate between the camera and the flash is always "Nikonese." Nikonese is spoken by all Nikon cameras (Except the F3 which speaks a funky dialect and requires an electronic interpreter), made to fully dedicate with any underwater flash unit. Dedication means that the flash will not only work TTL, but will signal the camera when it is charged and ready to fire, will set the camera’s shutter speed to a speed that will synchronize with the flash, will indicate in the camera’s viewfinder when the flash has fired full power, and may tell the camera that since there is a flash present, it needn’t hold the shutter open until an acceptable available light exposure is achieved. This can result in long shutter speeds with resulting blurred available light images. Ikelite Underwater Systems of Indianapolis, Indiana, has done a very good job, at times requiring a great deal of effort and ingenuity, in breaking the codes which the various camera manufacturers use in camera-to-strobe communication and then converting these codes to Nikonese. You can, therefore, order an Ikelite housing for most any SLR camera. Most will offer dedication; however, some models will be restricted in exposure selection and may have to be used either in manual or shutter priority exposure mode.

If you’re ready to move into housed SLR photography, you are, as you suggest, wise to consider upgrading your terrestrial camera system. You are about to make a considerable investment, not only in your housing and housing accessories, but also in new lenses. The odds are that the lenses which you are now using on land won’t be the best choice for use underwater.

Most people have a normal lens and a couple of zooms—say a 28-80 or so and an 80-200. Few casual land photographers have anything wider than a twenty-eight. The most useful lenses underwater are macro lenses—in the normal, fifty or so millimeter range and maybe the 100 or so millimeter range—and very wide lenses, twenty-four millimeter or wider. The 28-80 lens may be a good underwater lens, but most of the rest of the lenses in the average photog’s gadget bag are anywhere from very limiting to useless underwater. Some important considerations: are you completely satisfied with your present camera system on land, how important is your underwater Vs your terrestrial photography, can you accomplish your focusing and composition requirements through your present finder, and will you be able to access the controls you need in the housing?

Lastly, but by no means leastly—can you?--would you?--should you?--spend the bigger bucks for the bigger system? The high eye point camera systems start at around $1500 for a body and housing, and you could spend at lest a couple of thousand dollars more for the higher end housing. A large action finder camera, such as an F3, with a basic housing starts at about $2000, and the later, higher technology F4 (with an orchestra-sized array of bells and whistles) has an entry level pricetag of several thousand dollars. Nearly all of the deluxe housings are made for Nikon cameras in what Nikon calls its Advanced Systems Line. These cameras are the 8008 and the 8008S, the N90, the F4, and the new N90S. You now have the opportunity to measure your interest in and commitment to your photography in terms of dollars.

 

 

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